Beyond the Grain: Food and Wellbeing in Telugu Culture

“ahamanna ahamAnnam ahamannādah…”
(I am food; I am food; I am the eater of food
– Taittariya Upanishad

I am Annam, the consumer of the very essence of life. To utter benevolent words and perform virtuous deeds, I must partake in ideal sustenance. Annam, the nourishment that fosters sattva, or positive mental well-being, and oorja, the vital energy that sustains us. The ancient Kashyapa Samhita aptly refers to Annam as Mahabheshajam, the great remedy. We must reverence and honour food, for it is the very foundation of our existence.

Our lives depend on the sustenance it provides, and we must reject any notion that diminishes its significance. Food is a paramount factor in sustaining life, and Annam encompasses far more than just a simple dish of rice and water. Any substance that nourishes and satiates our bodies is, indeed, Annam. However, if we prioritize mere satiety over nutritional value, we risk indulging in detrimental junk food.

Let’s delve into the diverse and delectable culinary creations featuring rice as the main ingredient.

1. Esaru Annam: Esaru Annam, a traditional preparation that utilizes the nutrient-rich water used for cooking. To prepare Esaru Annam, combine one cup of rice with three cups of water and bring to a boil until the rice becomes tender. The starch-laden water is then discarded, leaving behind rice that is easier to digest and beneficial for those with diabetes, obesity, heart conditions, and blood pressure issues.
2. Attesaru Annam: Attesaru is a traditional method of cooking rice, where water is poured over the rice until the level reaches the second knuckle of the four fingers immersed in the water. In this method, the rice water (porridge) is not separated from the rice. This category also includes rice cooked in a pressure cooker. However, it is important to note that Attesaru Annam is harder to digest and may lead to increased obesity and sugar levels due to its high starch content.
3. ManDah: ManDah is a type of porridge made by cooking one cup of rice with eight cups of water. This nutritious porridge helps eliminate toxins and provides instant energy. Additionally, millet porridge is particularly beneficial for diabetics.
4. Pulagam: Pulagam is a delicious and healthy preparation made with a combination of rice, dal, salt, ginger, and asafoetida. The name “Pula” means golden colour, and this whitish-yellow-coloured Annam is considered a golden food. Although it is heavy, Pulagam is nutritious and best enjoyed with pure ghee.
5. MiSrakam: MiSrakam is a nutritious blend of rice and lentils. To prepare the mixture, known as Pancha Ratna, combine equal proportions of Toor Dal, Moong Dal, Urad Dal, Chana Dal, and Masoor Dal. Fry each lentil individually on a low flame, then mix them together. This protein-rich dish, named by King Nala, provides energy and strength when combined with rice and cooked.
6. Kadambam: Kadambam is a wholesome preparation that combines dal, vegetables, and rice. Enhance the flavour with black pepper, ginger, asafoetida, and ghee. This dish is particularly beneficial for diabetics, obese individuals, and cardiac health. Kadambam is rich in proteins, micro nutrients, and dietary fibre.
7. ParamAnnam: ParamAnnam is a sweet and nourishing preparation made by combining rice with milk, water, and jaggery. Add three parts milk to the rice, with half water and half jaggery. In special cases, use donkey’s milk for paralysis, goat’s milk for TB and AIDS, and cow’s milk for regenerating spermatozoa (vital cells in semen).
8. Gudodanam: Gudodanam is a nourishing dish made by cooking rice with three parts milk, half of which is sweetened with jaggery and the other half enriched with ghee. This wholesome food helps rejuvenate the body.
9. Dadhyodanam: Dadhyodanam is a curdled rice preparation flavoured with finely chopped ginger, pepper powder, and white sesame seeds. It is beneficial in treating amoebiasis, gastric disorders, anaemia, and is particularly nourishing for weakening children.
10. Khichidi: Khichidi is a nutrient-rich recipe made by cooking rice with various vegetables and flavours. This dish is a harmonious blend of flavours and textures.
11. Bakalabat: Bakalabat is a fragrant rice preparation cooked with stone flower, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and other spices. It is particularly useful in treating gastrointestinal diseases.
12. Sojjannam: Sojjannam is lightly fried rice cooked on a low flame. This preparation helps to cure indigestion and is easily digestible.
13. Malahora: Malahora, also known as ‘Ghritamarichi’ in Ayurvedic texts, is a popular prasadam in many Vishnava Temples. It is made by cooking fried rice with pepper powder and ghee.
14. Pulihara: Pulihara is a flavourful rice dish prepared with tamarind juice, pepper, fenugreek powder, mustard powder, turmeric, and jaggery. This recipe embodies all six tastes, making it a delightful and balanced culinary experience.
15. TApahAri (Garela Annam): TApahAri, also known as Garela Annam, is a flavourful rice dish prepared by adding small vadas (gare) to boiling rice, along with ginger, turmeric, and pepper. Garnish with coriander leaves after cooking. As mentioned in Ayurvedic textbooks, this dish helps alleviate excessive body heat.
16. Drabbeda: Drabbeda is a type of fried rice recipe made with lightly fried rice and flavoured with stone flower, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and other spices.
17. Rice Gruel (Rice water): Rice gruel, or rice water, is a porridge made from the scum of boiled rice. Enhance the flavour with ginger, black pepper, and asafoetida for a more sumptuous taste. This easily digestible dish provides strength but is not suitable for diabetics due to its starch content.
18. TaravANi: Taravani, also known as Kanjikam, is a sour fermented drink made by fermenting rice, porridge, or other millet grains for 1-2 days. This traditional recipe has been passed down through generations, and its purity and flavour have stood the test of time.

The rich culinary heritage of Telugu cuisine boasts a plethora of rice dishes, each with its unique flavour and story. While some names may have been lost over time, and flavours modified, these ancestral recipes continue to be savoured and cherished. The enduring appeal of these dishes is a testament to the culinary expertise and dedication of our ancestors, who skilfully crafted recipes that have stood the test of time. Their legacy lives on through the delicious flavours and traditions that continue to bring joy to our tables.

Dr. G. V. Purnachand
purnachandgv@gmail.com

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