“Ālaghr̥tambu vēm̐ḍiyagu nannamu nulchina muddapappu kroṁ
dālipukūra lappaḍamu drabbeḍa chārulu pānakambulun
mēlimi piṇḍivaṇṭayunu mīm̐gaḍatōḍi dadhiprakāṇḍamun
nālugu mūḍu ‘tōyamula nan̄julu’ gan̄jadalākṣi peṭṭangan”
Harilila vilasamu of Tenali Ramakrishna
This delightful verse from “Harililavilasam” by Tenali Ramakrishna paints a vivid picture of a traditional Telugu feast featuring steaming rice with ghee, soft muddapappu, flavorful curries, rasam, panakam, and notably, “four or five toyamulananjulu.” But what exactly `tOyamulananjulu’ means?
A similar reference appears in “Kridabhiramam” by VinukondaVallabharaya, who lived two centuries earlier. Both poets highlight pickles and chutneys as essential parts of the feast. While Vallabharaya mentioned nanjulu, Tenali Ramakrishna uniquely used the phrase “toyamulananjulu,” emphasizing vegetarian side dishes served alongside the main meal.
In Telugu, “toyamulu” means “accompaniments”—items that enhance the main dish, such as pachipulusu with kandipacchadi or mango pickle with muddapappu. According to the “Andhra DeepikaNighantuvu”, nanjulu typically refers to spicy side dishes eaten with alcohol, usually meaty or pickled. Poet AdibhatlaNarayanadasu stated that a cultured man does not need such nanjulu to enjoy a drink.
In classical culinary terminology, terms like “upadamSamu” (pickles like “avakAya” or “mAgAya”), “kalagalpu” (mix-ins), “koora” (curries), “nanjulu”, and “vyanjanamu” (flavour enhancers) all fall within the same category. “UpadamSamu” is the Sanskrit term for pickles—sour, spicy, often fermented condiments that are typically nibbled on.
When sun-dried vegetables are salted, they become uppukāyalu. Add mustard paste, and it’s Avakāya; mix in fenugreek, and it becomes menthikāya. All these fall under the rich category of oorugAya—the Telugu term for pickles. In Sanskrit, such tangy delights are called avadhamsa. Even Potana’s Andhra Maha Bhagavatam describes Krishna enjoying oorugAya with his cowherd friends, elevating these pickles to divine status in Telugu tradition.
Alongside these pickles are chutneys like “oorubindipachadi” (raw dal ground fresh), “gujju” (boiled and mashed), “tokkupachadi” (made with peel and pulp), and “bajji” (fire-roasted and pounded). Each variety offers distinct textures andflavours – testaments to native culinary wisdom.
In conclusion, the essence of a Telugu meal lies not merely in rice, ghee, or pappu, but in the “toyamulananjulu” that accompanies it. These accompaniments are not just culinary delights; they embody cultural, poetic, and philosophical expressions of abundance, harmony, and sensory pleasure.
– Dr. G.V. Purnachand
