“Ala Ghrutambu vEDiyagu nannamu nulchina muddapappu kroM
dAlipu kUra AppaDamu drabbeDa chAarulu pAnakambulun
mElimi pindi vanTayunu mIgaDatODi dadhi prakAnDamul
nAlugu mUDu tOyamula nanjulu gaMjadaLAkShi peTTagan
– (Tenali Ramakrishna `harileelavilasam)
“Harileelavilasa,” an epic poem by the renowned Telugu poet Tenali Ramakrishna, unfortunately exists today only in fragments, with the full text lost to time. However, the surviving portions offer a fascinating glimpse into the culinary world of the era. One particularly evocative section meticulously details a menu prepared and served by a beautiful woman with eyes like lotus petals. This menu, rich in detail, provides a window into the sophisticated gastronomy of the time:
- Alaghrutambu: Pure, clarified cow ghee, a staple of Indian cuisine.
- Vediyagu Nannamu: Hot, freshly cooked rice, the foundation of the meal.
- Nulchin Muddapappu: A unique preparation of muddapappu. Kernels of a pulse (likely green gram or lentils) were lightly fried, then tossed to remove their husks. The resulting dish was enjoyed with hot rice and ghee, prized for its digestibility.
- KrondAlimpu Kura: A flavorful curry, seasoned just before serving with a krondAlimpu (a tempering of spices). This tempering typically involved mustard seeds, cumin (jeera), and asafoetida (hing) sizzled in hot oil or ghee, adding a final flourish of aroma and taste.
- Appadamu: Known by various names across South India (appalam in Tamil, pappadam in Malayalam, and parpata in Sanskrit), appadamu is an ancient delicacy. It was made from ground pulses, such as moong or urad dal (masha dal), combined with rock salt, sodium bicarbonate (sarjakshara), and pepper. The mixture was then dried in the sun, creating thin, crisp discs. These were roasted or fried, often smeared with ghee, and served as a flavorful accompaniment. Appadams were not only considered delicious but also possessed carminative properties, aiding digestion.
- Drabbeda: A special rice dish, similar to khichdi or a spiced vegetable fried rice. Remarkably, Tenali Ramakrishna’s mention of drabbeda is one of the few surviving references to this unique preparation.
- Charulu: Charu (plural charulu) refers to a light, flavorful soup or broth. It’s essentially the essence or juice extracted from a combination of coriander, pepper, cumin seeds, and various vegetables. This likely accounts for its alternate name, sAram.
- Panakambulunu: Panakam encompasses a range of sweet beverages, including payasam (a milk-based pudding), rasala (a mango-based dessert), shikharini (a yogurt-based sweet), or jambirapanakam (a refreshing lemon sherbet). Traditionally, these sweet dishes were served at the end of the meal.
- MElimi PinDivanTayun: This refers to dishes made from ground flour, such as idli, dosa, vada, and punugu. These were integral parts of the meal in those times.
- MeegaDathODi dadhiprakanDamul: Dadhiprakandamul describes exceptionally creamy and thick curd, a cooling and soothing element of the meal.
- NAlugu mUDu Toyamula Nanjulu: Nanju refers to pickled vegetables, while Toyamulu signifies chutneys. These were typically eaten with dal rice or curd rice. The nanju included a variety of vegetables, such as eggplant and cucumber, often roasted over a fire and seasoned with a touch of tamarind, providing a tangy counterpoint to the other flavors.
The poem also sheds light on the traditional classification of food into five categories:
- Bhakshyas: Bite-sized snacks and treats, like gare or burse.
- Bhojyas: Foods that require chewing or mastication, such as pulihora (tamarind rice) and drabbeda.
- Khadyas: Foods that are sipped or licked, like chutneys.
- Choshyas: Dishes similar to soups or sambar, consumed by sucking.
- Lehyas: Sweet, lickable desserts.
The Telugu food culture, as reflected in the poem, emphasized a specific order of consumption: starting with softer foods, progressing to firmer dishes, and concluding with liquids. A typical sequence would be dal, followed by curry, chutney, soups, and finally, curd. “Harileelavilasa,” through this detailed menu, not only preserves a culinary snapshot of the past but also underscores the importance of enjoying food as a complete sensory experience.
–Dr. Purnachand GV
