Kākamāni Mūrtikavi (1550) in his Pañchāli Parinayamu, documented a rich and sophisticated Telugu culinary culture.
Vaddana Jūpiranta Cheluvalu (The Truest Servers):
Servers are those who anticipate their guests’ needs and serve with grace and a smile. This role embodies much more than the modern term “waiter” suggests; it carries dignity and charm. In `Pākadarpaṇa’, King Nala refers to them as Pariveṣakas, while Mūrtikavi affectionately calls them cheluvalu. What was once an informal art of personal mastery has now been institutionalised as “Service Etiquette” in hotel management, reflecting a shift from tradition to professional training.
Teli Yogiram (Polished Rice)
In Palnadu, Śrīnatha praised the combination of sannannamu (fine rice) with jonnalu (sorghum). Later, Mūrtikavi referred to it as teli yogiram, or white rice. These references dispel the myth that earlier generations consumed only red, unpolished rice; refined white rice varieties were known and cherished long before modern milling.
Olupupappu (Dehusked Pulses)
Green gram (pesarappu) was commonly used in rituals and daily meals, while red gram (kandipappu), Bengal gram (shanagapappu), and gram flour were not included in sacred practices. Red gram began to be incorporated into diets around the dawn of the Common Era and later gained significance among the navadhānyas. Telugu people often call the wedding feasts pappannam. In this context, “dehusked pulse” specifically refers to red gram.
MenDoddina Kūragāya (Heaped Vegetables)
A hearty, thick curry filled with vegetables—iguru-style preparations that were as nourishing as they were flavorful.
Ghṛutamu (Ghee / Clarified Butter)
Derived from the Sanskrit word ghṛta, meaning “that which is sprinkled,” ghee was traditionally poured by hand over rice. Today, in an era of reduced physical labour and heightened health concerns, mothers may hesitate to add it to their children’s food, indicating a significant change from past practices.
Ukkerachakkera (Sugar)
This compound word referred to sweets, particularly the halwa-like confections relished in earlier times.
Tēne Laḍḍuvālu (Honey Laddus)
Distinct from laddus bound with jaggery or sugar syrup, these were held together with pure honey—a delicacy now rarely encountered.
Iddenalu (Idlis and Dosas)
Idlis and dosas were indeed part of the diet, but as elements of lunch or supper rather than the stand-alone “tiffins” familiar today.
Ānavālu (Pasteurised Milk)
Ānavālu literally means milk gently heated to remove harmful bacteria—a traditional anticipation of pasteurisation.
Moru (Buttermilk)
Rich, well-churned buttermilk was a staple, balancing meals and aiding digestion.
Mēru Paigiddi Dalanchirōyanaga
In royal kitchens—golden halls likened to Mount Meru—such dishes were prepared with exceptional care and artistry.
Gestulakabbe Samasta Bhāgyamul
The true wealth of householders (gestu) lay not in gold-filled halls but in their hospitality. To treat guests as gods, to serve with sincerity—this was fortune itself. The essence of food is not merely in the dish, but in the spirit of offering.
Food is Everything
Food should nourish, heal, and harmonise with time and season. To appreciate this heritage is to recognise that genuine progress is not only about convenience, but about sustaining life with meaning, dignity, and care.
Dr. G. V. Purnachand
