“tAruNyAtiga chUta nUtna PalayuktailABighAra svana
ddhArA dhUpitha SuShyadambuhRuta mAtsya cCEda pAkOdgatO
ddArampumgana rArcu BOgulaku sandhyaa vELalaM gELikaaM
tArAByantara vAlukA sthita himantarnari kELalaaMbuvul”
– Amuktamalyada by Srikrishnadeva Raya
Sri Krishnadevaraya’sAmuktamalyada is celebrated not only for its literary richness but also for its evocative descriptions of food. Among the many dishes he poetically portrays, one stands out—a unique fish curry made with tender mangoes, a delicacy relished during the peak of summer. His depictions of food are vivid and immersive, focusing not just on personal indulgence but on the shared joy of a well-prepared meal.
The Art of Savoring Food: The Concept of Bhogam
A bhogi is one who enjoys and relishes delicious, nourishing food, known as bhogam. The word bhogam carries three meanings: experience, pleasure, and fine cuisine. Food, according to Krishnadevaraya, should be eaten with expressions of delight—exclamations like “ah” and “oh” that heighten the experience of indulgence. He called it as bhogam
Mango Fish Curry: A Summer Special
Krishnadevaraya describes a seasonal tradition where landlords and farmers, seeking respite from the scorching summer heat, retreat to the cool interiors of their homes. They bring with them mangoes that have ripened just past their peak and pair them with fish sourced from the drying summer ponds. Together, they craft Mango Fish Curry, a dish that encapsulates the very essence of Bhogam during the height of summer.
Once the dish is prepared, it is traditionally served with rice and finished with a spoonful of ghee, a practice known as abhigharam—a hallmark of Telugu culinary tradition. Krishnadevaraya also recommended abhigaraof ginger oil meaning a small quantity of oil, a technique called, to fry spices. This crucial step enhances the aroma and flavor of the dish, incorporating a blend of mustard seeds, chana dal, urad dal, cumin, asafoetida, and curry leaves etc.,—a process known as Satalimpu or Talimpu in Telugu cuisine.
The Sound of Cooking: A Symphony of Spices
The cooking process itself is a sensory experience. In Uttara Harivamsa, NachanaSomana describes Satyabhama tossing shells while playing with Lord Krishna, an action known as Taalinchu. Similarly, when spices are tossed into hot oil, they create a characteristic sizzle, producing a sound—chuyyi—known as tiragamota (the sounding toss). Once the spices have released their flavors, the curry is covered with a lid, completing the process called tiragamoota, which results in a hissing sound, sometimes termed pogapu or popu in Telugu.
A well-known Telugu proverb encapsulates this moment: “A wife who returns home with a positive demeanor and a properly tossed curry are both incredibly satisfying!”
Beating the Heat: Cooling Remedies
To counterbalance the heat of the dish, a traditional remedy was often sought—coconut water. Without the luxury of refrigeration, villagers employed a cooling technique known as isukapathara (sand-burying). A pit was dug in a shady area, filled with damp sand, where coconuts were placed and covered, keeping them naturally chilled. Another common practice was to submerge coconuts and palm kernels in wells overnight, ensuring a refreshing coolness the next day.
In the blistering heat of summer, relief was found in the shade of banyan trees, the coolness of well water, and the laughter of youthful companionship—an experience that offered both respite in summer and warmth in winter.
Krishnadevaraya’s Rich Culinary Vocabulary
Krishnadevaraya’s descriptions of food are rich in unique and expressive terminology. He refers to a perfectly ripened mango as TaarunyathigaChoothaNutnaPhalam and describes fish found in drying ponds as SushyadambuHritaMatsya. The act of tossing spices and the resulting sound is poetically termed ThailabhigaaraSvanaddararaDhupitam. These phrases illustrate his deep appreciation for both the process and the experience of cooking.
A Celebration of Flavor and Fortune
For Krishnadevaraya, food was not merely sustenance—it was an art, a celebration of life’s pleasures. A meal, when prepared with care and enjoyed with delight, brings both Yogam (fortune) and Bhogam (pleasure). His poetic renditions transform the act of eating into an experience to be cherished, reminding us that great food is not just about taste but also about tradition, culture, and shared joy.
–Dr Purnachand GV
