The terms ‘Pappu’ in Telugu and ‘Dal’ in Hindi both derive from the same etymological root. In Telugu, ‘Dala’ translates to ‘badda,’ which signifies a ‘pod.’ The lentil, often seen in pairs of pods, is termed a ‘bipedal’ (dvidaLa) seed. Over time, ‘dvidaLa’ evolved into ‘BaidaLa’ or ‘Beda,’ meaning a split pulse in Telugu. Examples of such pulses include kandibEDa, pesarabEDa, and SanagabEDa. Muddapappu, a dense preparation of lentils, is renowned as the king of soups. The word ‘Soopa,’ from the Rigvedic era, literally means a cooked pulse and is the origin of the modern word ‘soup.’ In India, the tradition of cooking and consuming pulses is deeply entrenched—a true Indian’s diet invariably includes pulses.
Rich History of Pulses
Pulses have a long and storied history in India. Archaeological discoveries reveal fossils of lentils like kandi, minumu, pesara, and cowpea, preserved in pots from the Indus Valley Civilization. Traditionally, after the rice harvest, farmers would plant crops like green gram or millet as a secondary crop, marking pulses as apara grains (second-season crops).
In South India, pesara or minapapindi (black gram flour) is made into a paste and rolled into appadam or papadam, a favorite across the region. Among Telugu people, Muddapappu or Uttapappu (a thick lentil soup) is a beloved dish. In North India, Dal Makhani is a popular lentil preparation. References to lentils also appear in Chanakya’s‘Arthashastra’, which mentions Ghugni—a dish made with gram flour, enjoyed by Bengalis.
Lentils even found their way into Mughal cuisine after Jodhabai married Emperor Akbar, bringing Rajput culinary influences into the Mughal kitchen. Emperor Aurangzeb favoured these dishes, and Shah Jahan’s son, Murad Bakhsh, was known to relish Uttappu with ghee. Hindu cooks were highly regarded by Mughal royalty for their expertise in vegetarian dishes, as documented in Ancient Lucknow. One skilled cook created Muddapappu with cashew nuts for the Nawab, NaziruddinHaider. The cashews were soaked and sliced into layers resembling split pulses, showcasing the intricate techniques involved in pulse preparation.
Cooking dal has historically been an elaborate process, requiring much more than simply boiling the lentils. Our ancestors experimented with different methods, continuously refining their recipes.
In Telugu cuisine, even the utensils used for cooking lentils have distinct names. Rachippa, Pappenala, and Murlakadava are used specifically for cooking pulses, while Rallamidsatti, a soil-based pot lined with pebbles, is traditionally used to crush cooked lentils.
Nutritional Benefits of Cooked Pulses
Lentils are a powerhouse of nutrients, making them easier to digest than meat due to their high fibre content, which meat lacks. As such, cooked lentils, commonly known as Pappu, serve as an excellent alternative to beef. Beyond their digestive benefits, lentils are simple to prepare and act as a vital source of energy for the body’s metabolic processes. Known for their affordability, Muddapappu provides a budget-friendly protein option, rich in fibre, vitamins, and minerals while being low in fat. This has made Pappannamu, a traditional lentil dish, a cherished part of the culinary heritage among Telugu communities, revered for its auspiciousness and delicious taste.
Cultural Emblem of Soups
“Mashadisamanthanrupairanekaihrambhaprasunapramukhairbalodhaih
salyannasimhasanovibhaatighritathapatrahkhalusoopabhoopah”
–Renowned Chef and Emperor Nala.
The above Sanskrit verse from the ancient text PakaDarpanam (The Culinary Mirror), attributed to Nala and potentially dating back to the 9th century A.D., exalts PesaraMuddapappu as “soopabhoopah” or the great king of soups. In this allegorical description, Minumulu (black gram) is likened to the vassal lord of this regal dish. The culinary imagery extends to comparing the unfolding layers of a banana flower with the arrangement of its stamens to an army, portraying the luxurious addition of ghee as an umbrella over a king, and the accompanying cooked rice as the sovereign’s throne. This rich metaphor underscores the esteemed status of lentils in the historical and cultural narrative, emphasizing their integral role in both sustenance and ceremonial occasions.
Pancharatna Dal: A Symphony of Lentils
Pancharatna Dal, literally translating to “five jewels dal,” is a blend of five types of lentils: Kandi, Pesara, Minumu, Shanaga, andMasoora. To prepare this quintessential lentil soup or Muddapappu, begin by thoroughly washing and cleaning the pulses. Cook them in an equal amount of water, adding Saindhavalavan (rock salt), a pinch of turmeric, and a hint of asafoetida. Once boiled, the mixture is mashed into a hearty, comforting soup with minimal spices, typically just a touch of camphor, creating a dish known for its soothing properties. This delicacy, also referred to as Uttapappu or Muddappu, is celebrated for its ability to cool the body and is considered beneficial for all health conditions.
Royal Repast: Muddapappu Fit for a King
According to the legendary culinary master, Nala, a special preparation of Muddapappu was reserved for royal banquets. The process involves boiling water infused with turmeric, into which well-soaked pesaradal is added. The lentils are boiled again and then the water is drained to achieve a thick, lump-like consistency. This base is then seasoned with Saindhava (Himalayan rock salt), cumin seeds, coriander powder, pepper powder, and a trace of yellow camphor, enhancing its aroma and flavour. For a regal presentation, this richly seasoned dal is enveloped in a tender betel leaf, drizzled with ghee, and served alongside Annam (rice). Such preparation not only elevates the dish but also celebrates it as a ceremonial feast, worthy of a king’s table.
Dr. G. V. Purnachand
purnachandgv@gmail.com
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